From Kathmandu, I flew to
Mumbai, the most cosmopolitan city in India to most of the locals. Since Delhi was such a horrible experience, I wanted to go back to India to see what I hoped to be, a better side. I knew if I didn't go now, the sour taste of Delhi may prevent me from ever going back.
Mumbai is a delight. The architecture is stunning. From the CST train station to the University of Mumbai, and countless other buildings, I feel like I am walking through an old European city. I have only been hassled by one kid, he was from Delhi. I paid him to go away. As progressive as the city is, I often notice someone videotaping me walking down the street. A lot of Indians are not accustomed to seeing westerners they take videos and photos back to show their family and friends. When you think about it, it's the same think as me taking photos of them and posting them on my blog site. I was approached by many groups asking to take a photo with me. I usually oblige the kids and families, but say no to the group of young men. Look for me on India's myspace.
Although cleaner and safer than Delhi, the poverty in Mumbai is more apparent, with many families living on the street. It is heartbreaking to see a small child curled up on the sidewalk sleeping under a blanket.
Chowpatty beach, from afar, felt like home. Up close, there were some dramatic differences from the beaches in SD:
- majority of the beach appears to be a few inches of sand over concrete;
- everyone is fully dressed despite the 95-degree sweltering heat, including full burkas for some women;
- there are carnival rides wheeled in daily and operated by hand. I think this might be a replica of the original ferris wheel; and
- there are individuals and families living there. Albeit a better option than the sidewalk, still extremely sad.
I finally let my guard down at the beach. So far, I have been approached by locals who seem genuine and want to talk and or help navigate to a location, as opposed to a helpful nature that turns into a sale or a demand for money. I have had many pleasant experiences here, but have kept my guard up. When I have said goodbye, my short-lived companions have left with no questions. On the beach, I was approached by a man who appeared to be a kind, working professional who offered to show me where the Hanging Garden view restaurant was. Beginning to think that my fears were over analysis and personal trust issues, we started walking and talking. However, we never made to the restaurant as the guy turned out to be a total pervert. It remains true in my mind that unsolicited help has an ulterior motive.
My biggest regret of Mumbai: not participating as an extra in a Bollywood movie. I had two chances at stardom and turned them down. Mumbai is the Bollywood capital of India and they often recruit westerners as extras right off the street.
After Mumbai, I took Indian Railways to Goa, stopping at a beautiful beach, Ganatapipule, for two days. Over 14 million people take the trains each day and the stations are a sight to be seen with hoards of people entering and exiting trains. The train took 7 hours to get to Ratnigiri, the stop for Ganatapipule Beach, and 5 hours from there to Goa. It was a comfortable ride, however, I would suggest getting seats in the 2AC section as opposed to 3AC section. The difference being the number of pull down beds along each wall. In the 3AC section, if your 'bunk mates' decide top ull down the bed above you, there is no longer head room available to sit up right.
I travelled 2,200 miles by train and, surprisingly, it wasn't so bad. With the help of vicodin, I slept for a few hours during the night on the top bunk on a 4" thick pleather mattress. I left at 11pm and arrived in Alleppey at 3:30 the next day. The day trip was very scenic as India gets more and more tropical, in a massively hot and humid tropical kind of way, further south. On the train, you can hang out the side through doors between cars. It's exhilarating, until someone comes up behind you and the fear of being shoved off the moving train creates an urgent need to step away from the door. Alleppey has a decent beach and is a traveller's hub for entering the backwaters of southern Kerala.
Today I spent the day on the backwaters. I was picked up by a motorcycle, which is always stressful. About halfway through the ride, as the driver was passing everyone on the road, weaving in and out of traffic and hitting every pothole on the pothole-filled road, I realized I wasn't wearing a helmet. I don't think they have helmets here. I spent the last half of the short ride certain I was going to die and thinking what an ass I was to have gotten on in the first place. Of course, I made it, safely. The backwaters are a series of lakes and canals linking small cities and lined with villages unreachable by land. It is incredibly relaxing, tropical, and beautiful. The water is lined with lush vegetation including perfect coconut palms used to make toddy, which I had for lunch. Although fairly dirty, it is also used to bathe and to wash clothes and dishes. I travelled on a canoe paddled by two locals. There is also an option to get a house boat for a day and night. Some of them are amazing including such luxuries as a flat screen TV and air conditioning. It was a fantastic day and something I would recommend to anyone travelling in south India.
As I was having breakfast this morning a crow tossed a fish head from an adjacent roof top, through a window, between the table top and chair next to me, smashing into my legs. I took it as a sign of a couple things; first, I need to sanitized immediately, second, my lifelong hatred for birds is finally coming back to haunt me.
Gentlemen, a tip for you; just because you are in India does not mean you have to wear a bohemian man purse/shoulder bag. Your stuff still fits in your pockets and it looks as ridiculous here as it does back home.
