Tsunami

For those of you who don't know, it's a moment of truth. I have a strange fascination with natural disasters. I don't want to be in one, and I certainly don't wish them upon people, but if they are inevitable, I'd like to see them. Until yesterday, my main fascination was with seeing a tsunami. Yesterday I paddled out into waves that were 8'+ on the face. There were points where a wall of water was coming at me, sure to break before I could get over the hump, and I felt I was realizing my desire to see a tsunami. The only thoughts going through my mind were a long series of curse words.

Richard, my instructor, said this was a notch in my belt of surfing and if I could get out in these waves, I was already a better surfer. I think he was just trying to make me feel better. But I lived and I think he might be right when he said that next time I go out in medium surf it will seem like nothing. I did not catch a wave.